Falling from Summer

As a teacher, we look forward to summers like children look forward to Christmas. We go and go and go at full steam ahead for 180 days so we can have those summer months off. Still, who are we kidding? We end up doing school work, planning, and making stuff for class anyway. But in between those times, I try to spend as much time goofing off as possible!

I have to say that the summers I have spent home in the last couple of years have been some of the best in my life. I so enjoy the time I spend at home with family and friends. This summer was fantastic. I didn't have much planned, except to enjoy people's company and attend a long anticipated friends' wedding. The bachelorette was a hoot and a holler. I need my own Russian masseuse. He had such nice hands... And then came the wedding day. I've never been so happy to be drafted to hold someone's train. My face hurt, I was smiling so big. We toasted, got toasted, and were quite merry. Soooo happy for them, really. It's about time. I also got to go tubing, made dinner for friends, and went to a local carnival.

I was quite happy that I got to spend so much time with my little brother. He had joined me in Scotland, and now when I dream of travelling he's usually with me. We got to prowl around a bit, go hiking with some friends, and generally shoot the @%$#. Saw a movie, got ice cream, went out to lunch, whatever we had time for. Twas awesome.

Admittedly, I am happy doing just about anything as long as my friends and family are there. That's what I really look forward to in the summer. Sure, travelling is life altering and full of positive and tasty experiences. But on the inside I've got this little clock ticking down the days until I see the people I love. While I was home this summer, in addition to registering for an absentee ballot I made the decision and bought my tickets home for Christmas. Some people I work with say "Aw, it's not worth it to go home for such a short time" but I heartily disagree. I spent a holiday away from home, and though it was interesting and fun it can't replace the familiarity and comfort of home at Christmas. I want to be home, on the couch with Mom and my siblings watching the Grinch and eating goodies while the nieces take the living room apart and pound up and down the kitchen like little chaos fairies.

And now I'm back where I was last year this time. I have a decision to make. Everyone was asking me all throughout summer and as soon as I got back my coworkers were asking as well. What am I going to do at the end of this school year??

Question of the year, that is. I'll get back to you on that one.

France: Open Mind and Open Mouth

I have to say that summer was amazing. So sorry this post comes so late. I have to admit that I was scared on my way to France. I had rented a car ("We only have ze BMW, is zees ok? Same price as small car. Oh sure, if I must), organized my accommodations, printed out directions, and was planning to drive around for nine days until I met my mother in Paris. I was in Heathrow, thinking I could easily just have changed my tickets and gone to spend time with my friend in Liverpool instead of trying to navigate the twists and turns of France by myself. But no, would never live with myself. I guess what was really bothering me was my French language deficiency. I spoke enough Italian to get around, I can get away with some Spanish. French? No, not my strongest suit. But hey, I figure if you can say 'Hello', 'Goodbye', 'Please', 'Thank you', and 'Where is the toilet?' you can get around in any country. Politeness is an international passport. So, off I went.

First and foremost, they drive on the right. No problem there. Second, Paris traffic is absolutely a nightmare. It took me two hours on the ring road around Paris in bumper to bumper traffic just to get out of it. When it finally opened up into open road, I was left fumbling for change trying to figure out which toll lane to get into. Thank god for the pictures above the booth. I went for the one with the picture of money above, and it was a self service. From there on, I had no issues driving anywhere. Got the difficult part down. Sure, I couldn't read any of the traffic warning signs. It could have said there were UFO's mutilating cattle up ahead, and I would have driven along blissfully ignorant. No worries. Driving in France is all good.

What I was struck by was the open space. Fields as far as the eye can see. Wide open spaces filled with sunflowers, vineyards, corn, and grains. Small towns that you can spot on the horizon because their 15th century church spires call your attention. And most of rural France is small towns. And when I say small it means that there is one main road and you are through the town in less than three minutes.

Amboise was my first stop. It was the home of the kings and queens of France, as well as the last home of Leonardo Da Vinci when he was in the service of Francois I. I loved his home, Le Clos Luce. Quiet, with huge gardens and ponds. I was one of the first people there that day. Even the museum guides in their chintzy medieval costumes hadn't arrived yet. Felt like it was just me, following Da Vinci's echo through old hallways. Old faded tapestries, huge fireplaces, and tall dark wood chairs still occupy his rooms. In the basement are replicas of some of his inventions alongside copies of his sketches. The man was a visionary genius. He invented a double hull for ships. Would Titanic had sunk if we had started using and evolving that technology sooner? Paddleboats, suspension bridges, the ball bearing...and weapons. He was paid a lot of gold by royalty to invent weapons. I really think it was his bread and butter. There were smaller replicas of those in an adjoining building. One of them was particularly nasty, a chariot with scythes on the wheels designed to cut enemies off at the knees. Out in the gardens were full size replicas of some of his inventions. The one I enjoyed most was the tank, which when you turn the wheel it will spin a full 360 degrees. You can see through the slits, and I would assume fire arrows and the like. Yeah, I giggled like a maniac as it was just me around so I spun around in there for a good five minutes. At the castle of Amboise, Da Vinci is buried in the chapel marked by a bronze slab bearing his name and image. That's all. Nothing huge or showy. The castle overlooks the Loire river valley. You could see people coming for miles. That, and it's just a wonderful view of such a lush green place.

Lascaux was pretty cool in the Dordogne valley. Ever see those cave paintings in books of mammoths? I saw those. Lascaux itself had to be closed due to the damage to the paintings, so bless their little French hearts they replicated the caves exactly so people could still see the paintings. They are indeed the most clear and colorful cave paintings I have ever seen. The sophistication is amazing, how they used such simple lines to convey movement. I saw a second cave at Rouffignac, which was original. The area itself is set so far back from the road in the middle of this primeval ancient pine forest that there is only one single lane road in and out. I was lucky, I got one of the last tickets available for the day. I also didn't realize how far back into the cave it was. The train takes guests on a 15 minute ride back into the caves. The walls are covered with thousands upon thousands of claw marks from cave bears. Can you imagine being an ancient human, armed with a torch and a stone knife wandering back into these caves knowing that you might run into an eight foot tall cave bear? Yikes. Unfortunately, none of the tours were available in English. All I could do was look around and try to listen for words I knew. Most of these mammoths were black outlines. However, the image that the cave is known for are a parade of mammoths carved into the walls. It's unknown what these images were for or who did them. It's thought that perhaps they were magical or religious, carved by shamans or holy people. I enjoyed a rather lovely meal at my hotel of fresh fish, a pear and pork salad, and heavenly profiteroles (round cream filled puff pastries) with a homemade chocolate sauce and a pistachio macaron. I had a cool shower after; I honestly felt like I'd just had really good sex. I've only ever enjoyed a meal like that maybe once before in my life. And that was in Italy.

I was surprised by Provence. I've always seen images of rolling lavender fields. What they don't show you are the winding mountain roads and dense forests that surround those fields. My little car kept climbing, back tracking, and switching back over these twisting mountain roads until when I finally thought I would never make it, I crested the top of the mountain and looked down upon a carpet of lavender. The valley was blanketed in purple. There aren't too many times I can remember being speechless. I reached the tiny town of Sault on Bastille Day, so there was a lot going on in this tiny hilltop town. The church was open to visitors, with huge vaulted ceilings. There was a small festival going on for the holiday. I stopped at the cheese shop for some lovely goat cheese with lavender. Found a nougatier selling lavender flavored meringues. I sat with my little picnic and a small bottle of rose wine looking out onto the town square as they lived it up for Bastille Day. When the sun set, the valley was ablaze with fireworks. There was a concert somewhere, because it echoed up and down the valley. The next day I drove up and down the valley, around and around the winding roads just taking in the sights and smells of the lavender fields. The farms weren't open yet because the lavender wasn't quite ready to be harvested. I had wanted to paint, but it was too damn windy and chilly. Yes, chilly. A temperature I no longer seem to be familiar with or prepared for. There is a small grey 11th century abbey nestled in one of the steep valleys in Provence called Abbaye de Senanque. Grey stone surrounded by an ocean of purple. I happened to be there on a Sunday just in time for services. Huge ceilings, tall columns, and high windows, with plain wooden chairs for seating. The service was in French, so I couldn't understand a word. However, the singing was worth sitting through the service. Ever hear Gregorian chant? Yeah, it was like that. Their voices reverberated through the medieval hall. It was worth almost driving off a cliffside on a one way road to get there just to hear that.

I met my mother in Paris a few days later on the Viking riverboat cruise. We saw Notre Dame, which I could just sit outside and take in the ghoulish and saintly faces peering at me from all corners of the facade on every side. There was a guided tour of the Louvre, and I'm glad to say I did it and saw the Mona Lisa and Winged Victory but it was so crowded I really wouldn't do it again unless I could be guaranteed a little breathing room. I have to say that I did see the Eiffel Tower, but felt no need to climb it. I was quite satisfied with a view from the distance. I have to say, I was just so glad to be with my mom. I was so lonely by the ninth day that I just couldn't wait to turn in the car and run to meet her. I'd reached my limit for independent travel and wanted my mommy :) The cruise was very peaceful, you can see so much sailing down the river. Old towns and churches, river traffic, houseboats, and mansions that I swore only existed in movies. Rouen was like a smaller version of Paris. We took a walking tour of town and saw the old Gothic church, and then had the pleasure of seeing Monet's paintings of it in the city's art museum. One of the highlights of that trip for me was seeing the Bayeaux tapestry. Glad that my mom was as keen to see it as I was! Woohoo! The largest piece of embroidery, a little over a foot wide and about 250 long. The audio guide keeps one moving rather fast, but it explains each stage of the events that unfolded before, during, and directly after the battle of Hastings. Supposedly it was commissioned by William the Conqueror's brother Odo. They believe it was done in a workshop in England, but it is not known by who or how many people worked on it. I was amazed at how bright the colors are hundreds of years after it was produced. We met some lovely people on the cruise, had some very nice food including frogs' legs, escargot (snails) and filet mignon. We ate well, and I could feel myself putting a bit of weight on. Oh damn, it was fun. It was splendid to be experiencing these things with my mom, and the time we spent together will be something I will use as one of my happy thoughts :)

French people? Friendly, helpful, polite, don't know why people say they're so rude. They don't seem to know how to queue, but they are not the only culture to not know how to wait their turn. Perhaps this was because we didn't come into contact with many Parisians ;) Still, we did run into a rude man but he worked at the airport. I'm pretty sure working at the airport trumped the rude Parisian card. He was simply rude because he worked at the airport!

It was a wonderful experience, both exploring on my own and with my mother. There are upsides to travelling alone, because you're on your own time and can do whatever you want. Linger however long you want, eat when and where you wish, and take everything in at your own pace. The downside is that when you see something cool, there's no one to share it with. There were so many times when I wished with all my heart that those I love were with me. I'm glad the trip was balanced out with some awesome Mom-and-Me time. At this point, I think I'm kind of over seeing things by myself and would love to share more of my experiences with friends and family. It's been wonderful for my family and friends who have been able to join be abroad. Hopefully, we'll get to enjoy more travelling together :)

Scotland the Green and Wet!

I have to say that Scotland has been one of my most favorite places that I have visited. Perhaps it was the timing. I was truly getting tired of brown sand, white villas, and sandstorms. Scotland was a welcome breather full of blooming trees, early spring flowers, and light refreshing showers of rain. Much needed, I assure you. I was also dying to see familiar faces, and was darn near bursting at the seams to see my brother and my friend Troy. I have to say, those two are easy to pick out in a crowd. I mean, c'mon, Matt was wearing his brightest blue scrub pants and Troy is over 6 feet tall with hair longer than most women. They don't blend very well :) I met them in Heathrow, where we had to hang out for a few hours before we blasted off to Scotland.

I have to say, Edinburgh Airport is much easier to navigate. I think it's because it's so much smaller than most other airports I have been to. You blink and you're at the baggage claim. You wink and you're out the door. The car rental place was easy, just gave them my reservation and off we went. They gave us an Audi A4 because we had requested a GPS. Um, wow. I have NEVER driven anything as nice as that Audi. Sleek, black, lovely interior, and so many buttons I figured if I pressed the wrong one we would find ourselves speeding towards Mars. Disconcerting enough that the steering wheel is on the right with the subsequent shifty/ geary stuff on the left...it also took us a couple of minutes to figure out how to start it. It came with what looked like a fob, but no key. After Troy consulted the manual, we found the place to insert the "key" followed by depressing the break and pushing the key in to start the car. Weird! But kinda neat ;) It took us another five minutes to figure out how to program the GPS, which I dubbed "Rosie". So I would have someone to curse out in my frustration if we got lost. As we drove off the rental lot I could see others leaving, driving with much the same overly defensive OMG-this-is-unnatural demeanor. It was a bit nerve wracking at first. Still, as we wended our way into Edinburgh city, it got easier. The roads are the tiniest bit wider than in Ireland. And I had been proactive and gotten the full insurance on the car. No worries.

The first B&B was located out in the neighborhood of Merchiston. I highly recommend the Granville Guest House if you are ever in Edinburgh. The owner, Latif, is a doll and takes extreme pride and care in providing for his guests. We didn't do much the first day because we had all three been awake for over 30 hours. We found a nice little place down the street called the Piece Box to have afternoon tea. It was an early night for us.

The next day we awoke bright and early and after a lovely breakfast of sausage, eggs, ham (lovely porky goodness!) and toast we hopped the bus up to the Royal Mile. Thank goodness we got to Edinburgh Castle quite early. There was already a line 30 people long. This much I have learned from travelling: Get to the biggest attractions first thing when they open, or you will be waiting quite a bit to get in. The castle was amazing. I believe it sits on the highest hill in the city. You can see all the way out into the Firth of Forth from its walls. There are rows of cannon lining the old stone walls, though they are not original. There are lots of places to see inside the castle, including the Crown Jewels. I found the Stone of Scone (or the Stone of Destiny) to be more interesting. Up until 1998, it had sat under the throne at Westminster Abbey in England where the royals sat to be crowned. It was returned to Scotland that year, and it will be brought to Westminster again when the next monarch of England is to be crowned. Think of how many royals have been crowned over that stone in the last couple of hundred years. Cause for reflection, I think. One of the things that really tickled me was the small graveyard below the chapel of Mons Meg for the dogs of the officers. Little headstones with names like "Tinker" and "Scamp". Such easily overlooked things that speak more to me about the people who lived there than do cannon or great halls. After Edinburgh Castle, we meandered down the St. Giles Cathedral. There is a chapel dedicated to the only chivalric order in Scotland in there, the Knights of the Thistle. They also have the largest pipe organ I have ever seen in my life, reaching straight to heaven or so it seemed. I wish I could have heard it play, I'm sure it was something very special and memorable to hear. What dazzled me more was the plethora of fresh daffodils all around the church for Easter services. Spring seemed to have sprung inside the church, and for all of the neo-Gothic loveliness, I was equally taken with the fresh yellow flowers in their simple pots strewn about the church. As if we hadn't seen enough, we went to see the National Museum just a few blocks over. Wow, we were tired by then. Eyes starting to glaze over a bit. There is such a thing as saturation, when your senses have taken in so much in a short time that your brain really can't take much more. Well, we'd almost reached our daily limit I feel. I have to say that the prehistoric, Pictish, and early Roman artifacts are extremely interesting. I had forgotten that the Romans had come into Scotland, and had built settlements on the southern half of the country. Pictish artifacts were found out on many of the islands such as Islay and the Orkneys. I couldn't help myself, had to take pics of the fertility amulets and votives lol There were torques, bracelets, brooches, a hood, dishes, even remnants of shoes. Old arrowheads, a stone arm guard for an archer, a horse's armor. The Bank of Scotland chest with fifteen locks in the lid just boggled my mind. That evening, we visited a few pubs in the Grassmarket area that played live music. Wow, that's one busy pub scene. Crowded, one has to push to the bar. I did find out that due to my dieting, I can really only handle two pints anymore. I got full! Darn those calories.

The next day, we bid adieu to Latif and headed out to Glencoe. We stopped on the way at Stirling, stronghold of Robert the Bruce. Site of the battle at Bannockburn where he defeated the English. Childhood home of the young Mary Queen of Scots. Clouds wash over the green hills. There was a strong breeze carrying the scent of fresh rain. Yeah, I liked it there. Robert Bruce is really seen as the hero of that time, and William Wallace seems to considered more of a secondary figure.

I could give you a play by play of the rest of the trip, but I'd actually prefer that you check out my Facebook photos. They kind of tell the story better than I could. It's got a special place in my heart. I would go back in a heartbeat if given the opportunity.

It's Istanbul, not Constantinople!

This past weekend, we had a long weekend from school. Many of us took the opportunity to get as far from Dubai as we could and forget about school for awhile. A friend and I seized the chance to go to Istanbul for a few days. It's a fairly quick trip, being only five hours by plane away from Dubai.

Turkey is a Muslim country, but it has such a different feel than Dubai. Aside from the fact that it was quite chilly, requiring hat, coat, and scarf. It's more laid back, more friendly. Look at the strays in Istanbul. Everyone feeds them. They're not seen dead all over the roads as they are in Istanbul because people actually go out of their way to not hit them. That alone says a lot about the Turkish culture.



The city is full of masterpieces of architecture. We got there in the afternoon on Friday and headed over to the Basilica Cistern. There are cisterns all over the city, built by the Greeks/ Romans to supply the city with water. Most of them are about thirty feet under ground, and consist of huge cavernous spaces filled with columns lit from underneath. The one we visited was almost like being inside some kind of large tomb. It was fed from a lake 16km from the city.

It obviously still gets water, because the floors were wet and covered with sandbags and sump pumps. There is actually a small pool still down there, and it has fish in it. Well, if it's being fed from a lake, lakes have fish. There are also two column caps of Medusa. One is upside down, which is supposed to ward off evil. The other is sideways, and we're not sure what that means. We could have hung out there for quite some time just taking pictures, but there's so much in Istanbul to see!

We headed over to the Blue Mosque next. The Blue Mosque is a mere 400 years old and decorated with blue Islamic motif tiles. It's also one of the few mosques in the world with more than four minarets. It's downright awe-inspiring. As such, it's still in use as an active mosque today. Being a Friday, we had to wait until services were over, but it was well worth the wait.



After the Blue Mosque, we wandered the streets of Sultanhamet for a bit. Sultanhamet is one of the touristy areas in Istanbul because so much of the architecture and oldest history are right there. The streets are lined with small shops selling everything from silver to sweets. There are men standing outside all of the cafes and restaurants trying to tempt you in by showing the menu and pointing at the goodies in the window. There are so many such places that I can understand, the competition for customers is quite fierce. For dinner, we went to a place touting an Ottoman menu and feasted on mezze (fresh bread, hummus, labneh, and mint flavored yogurt) as well as pastry stuffed with beef, chicken, and peppers. Wonderful, hearty, and warming to the insides after being out in the cold. We also meandered into a local sweet shop for some of the fluffiest, tastiest baklava and apple tea I have ever had. All previous baklava pales in comparison. Yes, I explore with open eyes and an open stomach ;)

The next day we headed out fairly early to get to the Hagia Sophia when it opened before the huge masses of European and Asian tourists flocked in with their guides. The Hagia Sophia spans a long period of history when it began as a Greek patriarchal church, then was converted to Roman Catholic in the 1200s, and then in 1453 it became a mosque. Outside, you can actually see the original foundations with Greek columns and friezes. The outer courtyard looks like a column graveyard with pieces of columns and statues standing about like ancient relics from a time little remembered. Inside is where it all really comes together in a grand conversion of history and religion. Every surface that could be done in mosaic, gold leafing, or painted was and is. There are partial mosaics of Christian iconography that have been restored (most back in the 19th century). They were whitewashed and painted over when the cathedral was turned into a mosque. The archways, ceilings, walls, even vaulting are covered with Islamic motifs and designs. In some places, you can actually see where the Muslims tried to cover up some of the Byzantine crosses. There is even a bit of Viking graffiti on one of the banisters. Apparently the Emperor liked tough guys and hired Vikings to serve in his army. The name "Halvdan" is carved into the marble railing on the second floor. We spent a good two hours wandering taking pictures. If you've seen my Facebook, you know just how many pictures I took :)

After the Hagia Sophia, we visited the Grand Bazaar. It's a huge covered market selling anything and everything for whatever price you can manage to bargain. The place is a rabbit warren of corridors with brightly colored stalls and shops crammed in against each other. Yeah, it's a major tourist attraction but it's still worth seeing. My friend and I hadn't planned on buying much, but we got sucked into a shop selling fabrics and home decor. Here's the thing: If the shopkeeper invites you to sit down for tea, brace yourself. You're going to be in there for a time, and he will be showing you his entire shop. The Turkish theory is that if they keep showing you stuff, you will eventually buy something. And true enough, we both bought the most beautiful bedspreads I have ever seen. I've never had anything this lovely. And I so hadn't planned on buying it. Aydin, the shopkeeper, threw in some pillow covers. And just when we thought we were done, he says "Let's have one more cup of tea". Oh, boy. Then he starts showing us carpets. Now, my friend had indeed been wanting to buy a carpet. He showed her one that she fell in love with: flatwoven with knotwork and embroidery with vegetable dyes, 100% wool. He gave a magnificent presentation of that carpet, then sent his helper out to bring more. He spent a good twenty minutes just showing her carpets. The REAL selling began when my friend asked the price. They went back and forth forever with the calculator. Aydin was a funny man, and he said he'd get my friend a rich Turkish husband so he could buy her lots of carpets. Then he looked at me "For you, you can have ME." Huge smile on  his face. I told him that wouldn't work out well, because I wanted a rich husband too. He seemed to take a huge liking to me, kissing me on the cheek, hugging me as he and my friend haggled back and forth. At one point, he cries out "Oh Elena your friend she break my heart!" and he put his head in my lap. I looked at my friend and she got the hint. Time to go! Haggling aside, she wasn't willing to pay what he wanted for the carpet. And I was tired of him hanging on me, though I had let him because he was cute and the more he kissed my cheek the lower the price went ;) My friend said she should have traded me in marriage for the carpet. Oh, no! If I'm to be traded, it had better be for a Persian silk carpet ten feet long at least!

We tried another restaurant for dinner, a kebab place near our hotel. The food was excellent, all kinds of mixed grill with fresh bread. However, we got a major surprise when the bill came and an extra 20 lira was added to our bill for "bread, tax, and service". We hadn't even ordered the bread! Ah, well, some places in Europe do that as well. Live and learn. Schmuck. After dinner, we took a taxi down to the waterfront to the Dede Efendi house, home to some of the Whirling Dervishes. Whirling Dervishes are the closest thing Islam has to monks. They spin around and around in place to music, trying to reach out to God. The house was old and small. A famous Whirling Dervish had lived there, composing music and teaching other Dervishes. What we actually witnessed was a religious ceremony. The audience was told to make absolutely no sound and to not clap until the very end when the ceremony was over. The Dervishes' expressions were almost beatific. I felt like we were spying, peeping even, on something sacred and private.

The next day was museum day. We started with the Ottoman stronghold, the Topkapi Palace. I never imagined how big it was until we passed through the first outer wall which butts right up against the modern neighborhood outside. Literally, the modern and Ottoman walls are right up against each other. We walked through a large courtyard and passed some outer buildings and then through a second outer wall into the main palace. One side faces Istanbul, the other side is on a cliff that faces the Bosphorus river. We paid the extra to enter the Harem, which was the personal quarters for the Emperor, his family, and his extensive collection of concubines. I fell in love with the tilework. Lovely blues, greens, and yellows in floral designs or Islamic motifs. Huge ceilings completely painted, tiled, mosaic'd, really there was very little surface without some kind of ornamentation. The huge Ottoman stoves were rather impressive, with their conical shaped chimney reaching all the way to the ceiling. Wow, it must have been hard to heat that place! We gawked at the jewel collection. There were emeralds the size of large eggs and cut diamonds bigger than a Texan belt buckle. Even Britain's crown jewels weren't that big!

After ooh'ing and ahh'ing at the riches of the Ottomans, we plodded down to the Archaeological Museum. They have a huge collection of Greek sarcophagi, as well as some Egyptian and early Christian. There was an Early Christian (Byzantine?) sarcophagus made out of lead. I have never seen any burial chamber made of lead in any culture. There was a huge collection of funerary epitaphs from the Greeks and early Christians, including a very touching one from a Greek soldier to his dog telling how the dog was loving, amusing, and was his most loyal friend. What I really wanted to see were the artifacts from Troy, on the western coast of Turkey. Nothing like seeing the Iliad come to life. Granted, I'm sure not too many people get excited about pottery and spindle whorls, but I think it's like a doorway to a past that I've only read about. There were little statuettes from household altars, tools, and a rather large bust of Zeus that I had an urge to put my arm around and tell my friend to take a picture. I can't help it, I'm rather infantile at times :) After so much walking, we had an early dinner of roasted stuffed peppers, spinach, and fresh bread. I ate more bread in Istanbul than I had in months, it was so fresh and delicious. We finished the evening off with some kind of strawberry tart and baklava with a final wandering of the back streets of Sultanahmet.

The next morning, we were leaving on an afternoon flight but we still had one more experience to go. We headed to Cemberlitas, an old Turkish bath (or hamam) which was just a quick walk from our hotel. The reception and spa areas were all of white walls and rich honey colored wood paneling. We were led upstairs to change into disposable briefs and emerged wrapped in thin red striped cotton hamam towels. A rather bubbly lady led us downstairs to a huge old wooden door. We walked inside to a huge round room made of stone and marble topped with a large dome. The dome had dozens of tiny windows filled with leaded glass providing the only light in the room. Before I knew it, Miss Bubbly had whipped off my towel and laid it on the large fifteen foot wide circular stone in the middle of the room. With a huge smile, she told me to lay down. The purpose of this sauna like experience lying on the stone is to sweat out any toxins or dirt. I lay on the stone, just looking around at the little marble alcoves with basins and faucets for washing. I was just getting into the zen of it when a joyful voice jolted me back to reality. I turned, and it was Miss Bubbly, wearing nothing but disposable briefs singing, dancing, and shaking what God gave her. I couldn't help myself, I almost fell off the stone I was laughing so hard. She got a basin of water and proceeded to scrub me in a way that I have not been scrubbed since I was one when Mom washed me in the kitchen sink. This was followed by a soap-down and bucket upon bucket of warm water dumped on my body. I can hear my friend getting the same treatment from another washer. Then Miss Bubbly says "Shampoo?" and leads me to a little marble alcove where she sits me on a stone bench. She proceeds to dump an entire bucket of warm water on my head, and pours about a half cup of some lemony shampoo on my head which she roughly rubbed in. This was followed by about two buckets more of warm water. After my drowning, she giggles and says what I think was "Pool?" Seeing that I didn't understand, she put her arm around me like a mother with a small child and walked me over to a small tiled chamber which contained a lukewarm pool and a cool down pool. She watched over me as I slid into the warm water, and continued standing there watching me soak until she was called by another attendant. Overall, the experience was only a little awkward, and I felt very refreshed after cooling down in the pool. When we went upstairs to change, I noticed that my skin was literally glowing. Would I do it again? I think I would. If you need a good bath, head to Istanbul.

I was actually a bit sad to leave. We'd fit so much into four days, and only seen part of what Turkey had to offer. The history is long and vast, the architecture stunning, and the people extremely pleasant. If I do ever take another international post, I would definitely consider Turkey as a possibility.